Setting off on an Icelandic adventure with my husband, Bryan, was a long-awaited journey we were both excited for. We were lured by the promise of unparalleled natural beauty, cascading waterfalls, healing hot springs, and the elusive dance of the Northern Lights.
Leading up to our vacation, I meticulously designed our five-day itinerary to ensure that every adventure was both breathtaking and easily navigable, catering to my accessibility needs while immersing us in Iceland’s stunning landscapes.
Technically, this itinerary spans five and a half days, as our departing flight was scheduled just before 5 pm. Despite our carefully planned schedule, there were a couple of experiences that we didn’t get to enjoy as expected.
Unfortunately, both evenings of our Aurora Tour were canceled due to poor conditions, and the Blue Lagoon was temporarily closed due to volcanic activity. Additionally, I chose to take a rest day (which is very important) instead of going Horse Riding. However, despite these adjustments, my husband and I still felt that we didn’t miss out on anything. Iceland surpassed all our expectations and proved to be nothing short of incredible.
Arrival Flight Details
We opted for a red-eye flight from JFK (John F. Kennedy International) in New York to Keflavik International Airport (KEF), as we both appreciate the opportunity to sleep during flights, waking up as refreshed as possible and mitigating jet lag. Our non-stop Icelandair flight departed JFK at 19:25 on November 9th, arriving at 6:05 on November 10th, granting us an entire day to begin our Icelandic adventure.
We selected JFK for two primary reasons: 1) to benefit from lower flight prices, and 2) to facilitate ease of travel for both my husband, who could conveniently take the train from Philadelphia, and myself, as I could secure a direct flight from St. Thomas to rendezvous with him at JFK.
ACCESSIBILITY: We booked exit-row seats to give my legs more space to stretch. Additionally, my husband cleverly utilized the “window and aisle seat” hack, leaving the middle seat vacant. It’s a savvy move, as most passengers will usually avoid selecting a middle seat when the window and aisle seats are already taken, especially if the flight isn’t fully booked. This allowed us to have the entire row to ourselves, giving me the flexibility to adjust my joints and muscles as needed.
On flights, Icelandair provides complimentary non-alcoholic beverages, with beer, wine, and spirits available for purchase. In-flight meals are also available for purchase either before the flight or onboard. I highly recommend pre-purchasing your meal, as certain selections may sell out during the flight.
Day 1: Arrival in Reykjavik, Secret Lagoon & Downtown Reykjavik
Keflavik International Airport & Car Rental
We arrived at Keflavik International Airport just after 6 am. Navigating the airport and customs was straightforward, although be prepared for potentially long lines, resulting in considerable time on your feet after a long flight. Service chairs were readily available. Once through customs, we collected our bags and stepped outside the airport, greeted by the cold pre-dawn air. This Caribbean girl quickly unpacked my heavy coat, gloves, and scarf.
ACCESSIBILITY: After about 20 minutes, the free shuttle arrived. However, there were no benches available to sit on while waiting, which could be challenging, especially considering the shock of the cold weather. If you’re renting a car and waiting for the shuttle, it’s worth being prepared for standing during the wait.
To ensure we could explore Iceland at our own pace (and make unscheduled stops to pet horses), we opted to rent a car through Blue Car Rental. The check-in and pick-up process was efficient, getting us on our way in no time. We opted for a mid-size SUV because the height is more accessible for me to get in and out. The added clearance also improved maneuverability on Iceland’s rugged terrain, particularly some of its unpaved roads. Aware of potential winter weather challenges, we prioritized a 4WD vehicle, ultimately selecting a Kia Sportage Hybrid, complete with a built-in GPS and user-friendly navigation system. Additionally, we decided to include a wireless hotspot for connectivity during our adventures, a worthwhile investment at just around $12 a day.
Breakfast: Grái Kötturinn
After our red-eye flight, my husband and I were desperate for breakfast (and caffeine). We left the airport and headed toward Reykjavik, where we would spend our first two nights, and came across the Grai Kotturinn cafe.
The ‘Grey Cat’ is quite a cozy spot with only 6-7 tables, so be prepared for a possible short wait. We came at just the right time, sitting right down at a small corner table. Keep in mind there’s a small step to enter the cafe. However, the prices are reasonable for the generous portions. With a small but well-rounded menu, my husband and I both ordered ‘Badass Bagels.’ He opted for the Morning Star and I the Hummus B.
Secret Lagoon
Driving distance from Reykjavik: 1 hr 36 min (65 miles / 105.3 km)
It was still too early to check into our hotel after breakfast. Initially, we had reservations for the Blue Lagoon, but unfortunately, they closed the day before our arrival due to volcanic activity (bummer).
We were able to re-book with the Secret Lagoon at the last minute. The oldest thermal pool in Iceland is fed by a hot spring that flows constantly, keeping the water temperature around 38-40 Celsius (100 – 104 F) throughout the year. This soothing soak was welcome after our overnight flight, and the drive gave us a glimpse of the landscapes we’d spend the upcoming days exploring.
ACCESSIBILITY: The pool had a sturdy staircase with railings, accommodating entering and exiting the water. The footing of the pool was loose, rounded stone. I needed my husband’s arm for balance a few times, but overall, it was very easy to navigate.
The lagoon was big enough to comfortably accommodate a large number of guests without feeling overcrowded. The changing rooms and showers were thoughtfully designed and easy to navigate, complete with benches by the lockers for added convenience while changing. Along with towels available to rent if you forgot yours, the reception area offered a selection of snacks, sandwiches, water, soft drinks, and alcoholic beverages for purchase. To keep me warm on the journey back to Reykavik, I took a mulled wine to go.
Note: Staying hydrated and maintaining blood sugar levels is very important while enjoying a geo-thermic soak. Drink water before, during, and after. If you can, eat before you enter the lagoon, especially in the evening. Spending time in hot water while hungry or thirsty might cause dizziness and fainting. Secret Lagoon has drinks, snacks, and sandwiches available in their cafe.
Downtown Reykjavik
Once we arrived back in Reykjavik, I plugged Baejarins Beztu Pylsur into our GPS. This one had Bryan guessing why I am in charge of itineraries. He was very dubious about me taking him to a hot dog stand, and I had to reassure him… a lot…that he would not regret my decision.
Bæjarins Beztu is an Icelandic staple and is one of the oldest family companies still running in central Reykjavík. Since 1937, they have sold lamb-based hot dogs with pork and beef. On a busy day, approximately one thousand hot dogs go through their window.
They are served in a steamed bun with a choice of ketchup, sweet mustard, remoulade, crisp fried onion, and raw onion. I can’t recommend highly enough to have “one with everything.”
The tiny service window can accommodate only two customers at a time. Despite the permanently long queue, the wait time is surprisingly short. This is thanks to the efficient employees who work there, who are paid by the dog instead of by the hour.
Not wanting to spoil our dinner, my husband and I both ordered “one with everything.” Let me tell you this – it was the best hot dog I’ve ever eaten. Bryan nodded in approval, and my job creating itineraries was safe for another day.
ACCESSIBILITY: As with all of downtown Reykjavik, we never had a problem finding parking within a block or two from our destination. The streets are level with wide, even sidewalks. Some utilize paver stones, but I never found them lifted or uneven. Quite a few shops have a step or two at their entrance, which I managed just fine with a hand from my husband.
We opted not to spend extensive time exploring Reykjavik on foot so I could conserve my energy for the upcoming days of adventure amidst Iceland’s otherworldly landscapes, which was the primary reason for our trip. However, the overall accessibility of downtown Reykjavik made exploring its vibrant streets and charming shops an enjoyable experience for us both.
Reykjavik Accommodations: Hotel Vera (Nights 1 & 2)
I entrusted my husband with finding our accommodation in downtown Reykjavik. With his knack for pinpointing prime locations near restaurants, bars, and attractions, I was confident that he would secure us the perfect spot for our stay.
Hotel Vera is located in Miðborg (Midborg), the downtown neighborhood of Reykjavik, where you’ll find most shops, cafes, restaurants, bars, and tourist sights. It’s also known as the Reykjavik 101 area. It’s the heart of the city and by far the best place to stay in Reykjavik.
The hotel doesn’t have a formal check-in process or front desk, which can be a little confusing at first. However, we quickly figured out the process and made our way to our room. Initially, I was concerned about accessibility because we only found a set of stairs, and we were on the third floor. Later that evening, we discovered an elevator discreetly located inside the restaurant on the ground floor. It’s worth noting that the elevator is always accessible, providing easy movement throughout the hotel.
The room itself was clean and well-appointed, with a comfortable bed, toiletries, and a hair dryer. Each room also has a kitchenette, including a small refrigerator, dishwasher, and coffee machine.
Our room had a charming view overlooking downtown Reykjavik, offering a glimpse into the city’s vibrant culture & atmosphere. Despite the vibrant nightlife that kept the streets lively throughout the night, my husband and I still enjoyed a restful night’s sleep in the cozy, cloud-like beds. We woke up feeling refreshed and ready for the following day’s adventures.
Day 2: Golden Circle
Breakfast: Emilie and the Cool Kids
This little gem was another husband find. It was located just a few blocks from our hotel, which made a nice walk to get my joints moving again and ready for the day.
From the moment I entered Emilie and the Cool Kids, I was in love. This little cafe was casual and eclectic in all the right ways. They specialize in breakfast pastries, scones, bagels, and breakfast sandwiches – offering both gluten-free and vegan options. They also serve an array of hot and iced drinks and fresh smoothies. I opted for a hot turmeric latte – excellent for combatting inflammation. As a bonus, their hot drinks are accompanied by a small taste of one of their delectable pastries or warm cookies. We loved Emilie and the Cool Kids so much we came back the following day before leaving Reykjavik.
Golden Circle Waterfalls
Driving distance from Reykjavik: 42 min (25.5 miles / 41.3 km)
The Golden Circle route is 186 miles (300km) long, and driving an entire loop starting and ending in Reykjavik should take just under four hours. However, this is purely traveling time and does not include any stopping time or sightseeing, and there are plenty of sights to see.
When planning our Golden Circle itinerary, my primary focus was exploring Iceland’s magnificent waterfalls. After extensive research on which falls would be accessible for me to visit, I settled on four within the Golden Circle: Thorufoss, Oxarafoss, Bruarfoss, and Faxafoss. You can delve deeper into each waterfall, along with their accessibility details, by checking out my dedicated post – 7 Accessible Waterfalls in Iceland.
Sights Along the Way
Renting your own car in Iceland offers the flexibility to pause and appreciate unexpected moments along your journey. From mirror-like lakes reflecting towering mountains to moss-covered lava fields, Iceland delivers a new, breathtaking sight around every bend. One of my favorites, of course, was the fuzzy Icelandic horses that dotted the wild landscapes. Bryan was a great sport, always willing to stop whenever I wanted to linger a bit longer and explore a vista.
ACCESSIBILITY: Because we had the flexibility to stop and explore along our route, I found that keeping my body moving helped prevent stiffness.
Dinner: Café Loki
After a full day of outdoor adventures, we worked up quite an appetite. My research into must-do experiences in Iceland led me to discover Café Loki. Located across from Hallgrímskirkja church in downtown Reykjavik, Café Loki specializes in traditional Icelandic cuisine; the menu boasts a few dishes that are not for the faint of heart.
While I opted for the safe (and delicious) lamb stew, Bryan chose the more adventurous route, ordering the Icelandic Plate Loki. This taster platter includes rye bread slices topped with Plokkfiskur (mashed fish) and smoked trout, flatbread with smoked lamb, dried fish with butter, and the taste of fermented shark. Yes. Fermented. Shark. Bryan told me he actually liked it, I took his word for it.
Instead, I opted to try Café Loki’s famous Rye Bread Icecream and was not disappointed. Both sweet and savory, and the whipped cream with rhubarb syrup on top complimented it perfectly.
We both washed our meals down with a shot of Brennivín, Iceland’s signature spirit. Flavored only with caraway, this clear, savory, herbal spirit is bottled at 40% ABV (80 proof).
Day 3: South Coast Adventure
Total distance from Reykjavik: 2 hr 29 min (116 miles / 187.7 km)
After another Emilie and the Cool Kids breakfast, we embarked on our third day in Iceland, ready for another day of exploring waterfalls. Today’s itinerary included visits to Gluggafoss, Seljalandfoss, and Skogafoss (which you can learn more about here) before continuing our journey south to Reynisfjara Beach and Dyrhólaey Lighthouse.
Southern Waterfalls
While the waterfalls of Iceland’s Golden Circle are predominantly situated along inland waterways, carved by ancient glaciers as they weave through gorges, the waterfalls of Southern Iceland cascade from towering cliffs. These cliffs are remnants of Iceland’s former coastline, which has receded by approximately 3 miles (5 km) over time. These former sea cliffs now extend parallel to the coast, acting as a natural boundary between Iceland’s coastal lowlands and highland areas.
ACCESSIBILITY: I was so impressed by the accessibility and infrastructure for each of the three waterfalls we visited in Southern Iceland. You could each from their designated parking areas, and the paths were packed earth, stabilization gid, or boardwalks leading you closer. To learn more about each waterfall, read 7 Accessible Waterfalls in Iceland.
Reynisfjara Beach and Dyrhólaey Lighthouse
After admiring the towering waterfalls, we proceeded south to Vik and Reynisfjara, Vik’s renowned black sand beach. During our visit in the afternoon, the sustained winds reached close to 40 mph, with gusts exceeding 60 mph. These strong winds made the otherwise short and level walk from the parking area to the basalt columns, spanning 300 meters, incredibly challenging for me. I relied heavily on my husband’s arm for support. Additionally, the sea was quite angry, with occasional large, powerful waves washing all the way up the beach. While the scene was undeniably beautiful, as with anywhere in Iceland, it’s essential to check the weather and wind conditions before venturing out.
After safely returning to our car, Bryan wanted to make a quick stop at the Dyrhólaey Lighthouse and overlook. We were greeted by undeniably breathtaking views as we drove up the winding road to the bluff. However, the fierce wind gusts shook the car quite violently, leading me to decide it would be best for me to remain inside while he explored.
ACCESSIBILITY: I know firsthand how challenging it can be to sit out an activity. It can feel incredibly disappointing and disheartening. However, it’s essential to listen to your body and avoid risking overexertion, which could jeopardize the rest of your vacation.
Selfoss Accommodations: Urriðafoss Waterfall Airbnb (Nights 3 & 4)
After a blustery day of adventures, Bryan and I made our way to our second Icelandic accommodation in Selfoss, where we would spend the next two nights.
An Airbnb and tiny home perched directly above Urridafoss, offering panoramic views of the Icelandic landscape through the cabin’s glass wall and sliding doors. Additionally, it boasted an outdoor hot tub, providing the perfect spot to soothe muscles, stargaze, and search for the northern lights.
ACCESSIBILITY: Parking was conveniently located just steps away from the front door, making access to this Airbnb incredibly convenient. The interior space was open and easily navigable, providing ample room to move around comfortably. Additionally, the shower was a walk-in stall, eliminating the need to navigate a tub, which was a bonus for accessibility.
Day 4: Recuperate & Hrunalaug Hot Spring
Originally, I had scheduled a horse riding tour for our fourth day in Iceland. However, I made a deliberate choice to incorporate a rest day into our itinerary. I find these rest days incredibly important for managing fatigue and preventing flare-ups that could impact the remainder of our adventures. While I was a bit disappointed to miss out on experiencing Iceland’s landscapes from the back of one of their fuzzy, hardy native breeds, considering horses are my career, I decided this was the activity I was most comfortable sitting out. Besides, I still got to meet some really lovely horses and horsepeople during our time in Iceland.
Hrunalaug Hot Spring
While relaxing and recuperating, enjoying panoramic views from our bed, I received a message from a friend who had explored Iceland before. He suggested visiting Hrunalaug Hot Spring. Knowing my accessibility limitations, I trusted his recommendation. Bryan and I looked it up and discovered that the springs were only about 30 minutes away from our Airbnb.
Hrunalaug Hot Spring was one of my favorite experiences of our entire trip. Tucked away in a secluded and serene setting, the spring offered a cozy thermal bathing spot amidst a peaceful and picturesque landscape. The three warm pools and earthen changing shed nestled into the pastoral landscape resembled something out of a fairytale.
ACCESSIBILITY: Parking was available in a small gravel lot, followed by a 5-10 minute walk to reach the hot spring. The trail primarily consisted of a packed earth and boardwalk, with a small hill featuring stable stone steps to navigate. The changing shed, while low and tight with no privacy, provided a bench for convenience during changing.
The most accessible hot pot for me to manage getting in and out of was the first one, situated behind the shed. It is a waist-deep tub with steps leading into a fine gravel bottom. This was the warmest (and my favorite) soaking spot. For the next two pools, I definitely needed my husband’s help to maneuver. If I had a pair of water shoes, then it may have been easier for me.
I absolutely loved Hrunalaug, and as I mentioned, it was a highlight of our entire holiday. We could have easily soaked in the warm water and idyllic views all evening. However, I wanted to avoid managing the walk out past dusk.
Northern Light Chasing & Stargazing
On our fourth night in Iceland, the skies finally began to clear, offering a glimmer of hope for witnessing the Northern Lights. Though scattered clouds still lingered, Bryan and I seized the opportunity to enjoy a tranquil evening in the hot tub, accompanied by a bottle (or three) of wine, as we eagerly scanned the sky.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, the stars emerged, gradually illuminating the darkness. Soon, the Milky Way unfurled across the sky. I was pointing out planets, stars, and constellations when one of the brightest meteors we’d ever seen streaked across the sky. Though the Northern Lights remained elusive that night, our evening remained awe-inspiring. Looking at the universe, dreaming, laughing, and reconnecting.
Day 5 1/2: Snæfellsnes Peninsula
Total distance from Selfoss: 2 hr 20 min (109 miles / 175.8 km)
Waking up after a bit too much wine from the previous evening, a long road trip with my husband driving was quite welcome. It gave me ample time to rehydrate and catch up on some much-needed sleep, helping to shake off the effects of the previous evening’s indulgence.
Nestled along Iceland’s northwestern coast, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula offers a captivating blend of endless lava fields, towering mountains, ice-caped volcanos, and quaint villages, all outlined by the rugged Atlantic coast. If time allowed, this road trip could have easily stretched into two full days. Still, even within our limited schedule, we managed to experience much of what Snæfellsnes has to offer, and it did not disappoint.
Búdakirkja Church: Our journey commenced with a visit to the iconic Búdakirkja Church. This charming black church, nestled amidst moss-covered lava fields, exudes an eerie yet captivating aura.
Hellnar: Continuing our exploration, we ventured to the coastal village of Hellnar, where dramatic cliffs meet the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean. Hellnar is an ancient fishing village on the westernmost part of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. It used to be one of the largest fishing stations of the peninsula, with the oldest written record of seafaring there from 1560. The town is picturesque, with breathtaking views in every direction. Bonus: There is a small cafe, perfect for a mid-trip caffeine fix.
Svörtuloft & Öndverðarnes Lighthouses: Perched atop windswept cliffs, these brightly colored lighthouses create an unexpected juxtaposition with the rugged beauty of the coastline and the stark lava fields surrounding them. The roads to reach both lighthouses are narrow, unpaved, and full of twists, divots, bumps, and potholes. While a 4-wheel drive might not be necessary, having increased clearance definitely came in handy. As long as you take your time, the road’s condition just adds to the adventure. And the best part is, you might luck out like we did and have the entire site to yourself!
Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss: Mount Kirkjufell stands proudly over Grundarfjörður, a defining feature of this picturesque fishing town. Widely regarded as the most beautiful mountain on the Snæfellsnes peninsula, perhaps even all of Iceland, it has become an iconic subject for photographers.
Next to Kirkjufell flows the Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall, fed by the pristine waters of the Snaefellsjokull glacier. While not towering in height, its three cascades, with Kirkjufell as a dramatic backdrop, offer a perfect snapshot of Iceland’s diverse landscape, making it a must-visit spot for any adventurer or photography enthusiast.
ACCESSIBILITY: Each of our stops in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula proved incredibly accessible, with most sights we visited easily visible from the car. For those wanting to explore closer, pathways were well-maintained, either constructed of crushed gravel or sturdy boardwalks, ensuring a smooth and enjoyable experience for all visitors. Whether you admire the views from the comfort of your car or venture out for a closer look, accessibility is undoubtedly not an issue.
Snæfellsnes Accommodations: Grundarfjörður Cottage Airbnb (Night5)
For our final night in Iceland, Bryan indulged my love of horses a bit more and found us an Airbnb on an Icelandic Horse Farm.
Nestled at the base of Kirkjufell Mountain, the cozy cottage at Berg Horse Farm provides a private retreat amidst breathtaking natural beauty. The hosts also graciously took me through their stables and introduced me to their horses and dogs – the perfect cap for my Icelandic Adventure.
ACCESSIBILITY: The cottages were true tiny homes, and while they were single-story, the space could prove to be a little tight if you are using mobility aids. The surrounding parking area and paths are also made of loose gravel, which was okay for me to walk on, but the wheels of my suitcase got stuck pretty quickly. Luckily, parking was just a few steps from the entrance to our cottage, and Bryan could carry my bag for me.
Breakfast: Harbour Cafe, Grundarfjörður, Iceland
Before we began our journey south, back to the Keflavík Airport, Bryan and I decided to grab one last breakfast in Iceland.
The town of Grundarfjörður was just a few minutes away from our Airbnb, and Bryan found a great spot nestled right in the heart of it. Harbour Cafe was bright and airy, and the barista was welcoming, asking us all about our Icelandic adventures. After we finished our coffee and breakfast sandwiches, he asked us if we had completed the ‘Viking Challenge’ during our stay. A daring combination rye bread, a shot of Brennivín, and a piece of fermented shark.
We told him Bryan was brave enough, but I had settled for the bread and the booze. He then offered me a complimentary taste of the local “delicacy.” I decided, if not now, then when, and went for it. It was a moment of culinary bravery that I won’t soon forget!
And truthfully, it wasn’t that bad. Was it good? No. But it was tolerable. The best way I can describe it is like a very pungent, slightly fishy blue cheese. Is your mouth watering yet? You can read more about the third-ranked worst food in the world here, along with testimonials from the likes of Anthony Bourdain and Gordon Ramsey.
Departure
Not ready to leave Iceland, but knowing we had a flight to catch, Bryan and I started the trek back to the airport.
After dropping me off at the check-in area, Bryan headed off to return the car. The check-in process was a breeze, and by the time Bryan caught up with me at security, we were well on our way to our gate. Knowing we had a major airport-to-tram-to-train transfer awaiting us in New York, I decided to take advantage of gate assistance from security to our gate. It was a relief, especially considering our gate was quite a distance away.
As we bid farewell to this land of fire and ice, our adventures remain forever etched in our memories. Weaving through landscapes both rugged and serene. From the vibrant streets of Reykjavik to the thundering waterfalls of the Golden Circle to the rugged cliffs of Snæfellsnes, every twist of road, every shared laugh, and every breathtaking vista was a testament to the beauty of Iceland.
Until we return to chase the Northern Lights once more, Iceland remains a cherished chapter in our travelogue of accessible adventures.
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